A Travellerspoint blog

An update!..yeah, we suck at updating!

by Doria

So….3 countries later..we decide to update our blog! Yeah, we’ve been busy and just now have the downtime….so be prepared to read for a while..grab some wine or coffee and enjoy!

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We made it into Cambodia starting in Phnom Phen..the capital. We were greeted at the bus station (or something resembling one)…by a smiley tuk-tuk driver who was eager to show us around his city..and thus became our personal driver for our time there. We toured the city…saw many pics of Angelina Jolie (café’s she frequented etc.)…stopped into the Canadian Embassy (to pick up much awaited bank card!)…and enjoyed the many markets. We also visited the Killing Fields and S-21, both sites where people were killed and buried (mass graves) during the Khmer Rouge regime. It was a very solemn visit to both sites….and we all had a greater feeling of gratitude and respect for the Cambodian people..what resilience and strength. We then spent 2 days at an orphanage..playing with the kids, bringing them rice, journals, pencils and also fresh food from the markets. It was an amazing experience…again seeing the strength of the children…starting even from the small age of 3...

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We then ventured north to Siem Reap…where we spent the next few days shopping, relaxing, trying to stay cool in the Cambodian heat…with no pool or ocean to be found!…and thus finding some good shows on Discovery Channel! Hey…backpacking is tough work..need some downtime! There we also visited a land mine museum, where it explained in great detail the work one man and his crew are doing to rid their country of its millions of land mines. We also went to the infamous Angkor Wat temple…and various other ancient temples hidden in the jungle….for example…the temple in Tomb Raider! It was crazy to just walk into the jungle and stumble across these huge temples…many with buddah or other godly faces built into them…staring out at you! We spent all day touring them, climbing onto them…and being amazed by the architecture. We got caught in a rain storm while in Angkor Wat temple…and it was simply beautiful!

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From Siem Reap…we got to check out the dodgy airline…Laos Airlines…because it’s the only way out of Cambodia into Laos from that point. It was nice to fly..but both Clint and I forgot what it was like to fly..and had to have our bags searched…forgot about those nail clippers and screwdrivers..! We thought Clint was going to have to stay behind! We made it into Laos..flying into Vientiane..the capital. We quickly realized that there really wasn’t much to do there..so we left the next day via bus to southern Laos…into Vang Vieng. Now this was a fun place! It was very touristy with nothing but restauraunts, guest homes, and tour shops. We enjoyed good food…complete with a different movie or rerun of “Friends” every night!…it was nice! It was here too that we floated down the river for 4hrs in a tire tube, jumped off swings into the river, kayaked in a torrential rain storm (so thick you couldn’t see anything right in front of you!) and did some great rock climbing! We also went to an organic farm, trekked through a cave with fire torches and enjoyed the beauty of Laos.

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We then enjoyed a very scenic and curvy drive to our last stop in Laos…Luang Prabang. Here we decided to see what the “Land of the Elephants” really had to offer…so we went to a 2 day Mahout training camp (elephant trainers!). We got to stay in real cool huts in the jungle, ride the elephants both bareback and in the wicker chairs, drive the elephants by sitting on their heads and saying simple commands, and wash the elephants while still sitting on their backs (we got wet!). It was beautiful walking into the jungle at 630am to go and get the elephants from where they sleep at night…listening to the mahouts sing their songs and letting your body move with the elephants. We also got to kayak back to the city…doing some small but very fun rapids, eating lunch in our boats on the water, and just enjoying paddling for 3hrs in the sun.

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Well, currently we are in Thailand!…We flew into Chiang Mai…northern Thailand. We chose the 1hr flight vs. the 3 day boat trip going against the current on the mighty Mekong river!…good choice! We enjoyed some major market shopping and also did a Thai cooking course there. We got to spend all day cooking and eating our own food. It was so good and very relaxing, but all 3 of us didn’t feel well for the next few days…! Guess we won’t be making any of those dishes for you when we get home! We then ventured to Bangkok..on an overnight bus…and our first taste of the big city was being dropped off in the pouring rain at 530am…and now find someplace to sleep! After a rest we enjoyed shopping down the famous shopping street…Koh San Road! Bright lights…crazy folk with corn braids, dreads and all kinds of things to buy. I (Doria) took a road trip to Pattaya..2hrs away..to visit a friend (Kari Satre..for those who know her!)…where I got to help teach her music class ..and be her surprise guest for a day! I also got to arrive back into Bangkok for rush hour!…my taxi driver spoke English so we had a good chat..and he had good tunes on the radio!

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We were happy to leave the big city and finally get to the beach….the southern islands!! What we’ve been waiting for! We started on the east side of the country…with Koh Tao…a small island known for its diving! So…we took our Open Water Scuba Diving course in 4 days and we all just loved it! Yeah….we’re divers now! We got to swim with sharks..which to say the least was AMAZING! Our resort was also quite beautiful….and we enjoyed good food and brilliant sunsets every evening over the ocean. It must’ve been good because now, we are currently enjoying the sun on Koh Phanagan…(1hr speedboat south of Koh Tao) but are heading back to Koh Tao to do our Advanced Diving Course tomorrow! We just can’t get enough…we just want to dive..and this time we get to see what kind of animals come out at night! We dive at night…learn to navigate ourselves under water, go deeper to 30metres…and other various fun dives!

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So..needless to say…we are enjoying ourselves, getting lots of sun..(and ok tans!) and getting the R&R we wanted and needed! This will likely be one of our last updates…because truly…the rest of our trip will be the same! We are heading to Phi Phi island after we finish our diving, which is on the other coast of Thailand…supposed to be one of the most beautiful beaches…and we will spend a week or so there just beaching it! Then we head to Kuala Lumpur for a few days…then to Singapore for a few…to get a small taste of Malaysia…then we head to London for 9 days. After that, Team DMC is no more….awwww…. We were just getting used to one another!

I, Doria, will be heading home to Canada…getting there late on July 10th. Melissa is heading to South Carolina..to spend some time with her brother before heading home to Canada. Last but not least.. Clinton is continuing the backpacking (brave man!)…into Europe, the States and likely also into Canada because he’ll miss us and want to visit! So….that is the trip! I hope you’ve enjoyed our stories and pics! Thanks for coming along! Stay tuned for the 10yr reunion trip of Team DMC! haha ciao! J

Internet connection not good!...will have to wait till i get home on July 10th for a whole slideshow of pics!! Hope you have a few hrs! teehee

Posted by clintonb 07:54 Archived in Thailand Comments (1)

Good Morning Vietnam!!

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OK…so, since we last wrote, we have all successfully rock climbed the limestone karst formations..and loved it!...crossed the border into Vietnam..and spent 18 days in lovely Vietnam! We were all a bit sad to leave China..after 6 wks there, but since I (Doria) had my wallet stolen in our last city in China…we decided to move on!

So yeah, we have a bit to catch up on. First things first…we arrived to Vietnam..and instantly we were thrown into the culture. Clint was riding on the back of a guys motorbike to the ATM, while Melissa and I were crammed into a mini bus with many locals..eating some strange nutty dish wrapped in a banana leaf! We finally made it to Hanoi, (the major city of the North) and spent a day there touring the markets, shopping, drinking great Vietnamese coffee (2nd best in the world!), and enjoyed taking a rik shaw ride around the city for an hour (an easy way to see the sights and be immersed into the crazy scooter/motorbike traffic). We have learnt very well to just close your eyes and walk when crossing the street…they WILL stop!

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We then took a 3 day, 2 night boat tour to Halong Bay/Cat Ba Island. The boat was like an old fashioned wooden junk, with sleeping quarters (which we spent one night on!)…and great tanning and eating areas. The scenery was WONDERFUL….tons of islands (they say there are 1,900 islands..only 900 have names!)…lots of limestone and grassy hills on the islands. We toured a cave on one of the islands, climbed to a look out on the other and kayaked around some of the others. There were tons of boats around the islands, very touristy…which made for a great scene at night with all the lights over the water. The next day we hiked through Cat Ba national park for fantastic views from a top of a mountain…and we kayaked in amongst the islands to our own private beach! That night we stayed in out most posh hotel yet!...and enjoyed great seafood (shrimp, squid, etc.)…on Cat Ba Island. It was a very relaxing and beautiful time…getting us in the mood to do some great beaching in Thailand! Oh how our trip has changed…from touring temples in chilly China…to lying on beaches in very warm Vietnam.

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We then took a 12hr overnight bus to Hoi An…another touristy/beachy city on the coast of Vietnam. The overnight bus was an experience…lets just say, you need to buckle yourself in so that you don't fall off the top bunk! One of the main attractions of Hoi An are the 200 tailor shops ready to make a suit, dress, coat, leather boots or really ANYTHING for you!...for cheap!...all tailor made to fit! We spent..ha..3 days there, Clint getting 2 great suits and Melissa and I coming out with quite a few nice dresses! Twas a fun time, but also stressful..getting them all to fit just right! So we also took some time to bike through the countryside villages and go swimming at the beach!

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Next stop..after yet another 12hr overnight bus trip, (this time just in seats…very cramped, not too much sleep to be had)…we made it to the ocean city of Nah Trang (right on the ocean..very beautiful!). There we decided to do a day tour of 4 different islands around the area. It was a smaller boat, but full of fun. We got to eat a delicious meal of seafood and fruit right on the boat…be entertained by our very funny tour guide..including kareoke, dancing and jokes…and enjoy snorkeling and swimming. Now, the snorkeling was a bit of a disappointment, for us who have been to the Great Barrier reef…but we still saw a few little fishies! Also..we found ourselves getting stung almost the instant we hit the water..by tiny little jellyfish that we couldn't see. They aren't poisonous..and do not really hurt…but are just kinda annoying! We still managed to jump off the top of the boat a few times….and well, Clint decided to do a face dive…giving himself a nice black eye!

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Our next adventure was a highlight for all 3 of us…the best way to see the true culture of Vietnam… We took a 3 day 2 night motorbike tour into the Highlands of the Vietnam (chillier and totally different culture)…and down the coast. We each had our own driver…and our luggage was our backrests! We got to experience Vietnam with every sense…so different from the back of a bike.. We saw the lush jungle of the Ho Chi Minh trail (saw the effects of agent orange in the valleys…), we heard the Zicada bugs chirping in the trees, we smelt the exhaust and every interesting smell along the way, tasted great local curbside café food, and felt the breeze on our faces! Our guides were so helpful, hilarious…and great companions for the 3 days! We got to see various ways of Vietnamese life, rice paper making, silk making, brick making, traditional dance and song, and just the everyday life of the people alongside the roads. It was an amazing experience….and we came out of it with a bit of dirt on our legs (we slid in the mud once…and got all muddy!)…a burn on one of our legs (mine..from the exhaust pipe--oops)…and a lot of good pics and memories.

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Our motorbike gang dropped us off in Mui Ne..a coastal town…basically all sand!..desert like. We stayed in a cute beach side resort, where we got to relax after our trip…in hammocks, with the beach air, with some good books! The next day we took a tour of the white and yellow sand dunes….Clint got a chance to go sand surfing (which is a business all run by little kids..they swarm you to use their crazy carpet!)…and we all got to enjoy the endless view of sand! We also got to walk through a shallow river, surrounded on one side by sand formations caused by water and erosion….and through a red "sand canyon"….twas pretty cool.

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Our last stop in Vietnam was the city of Ho Chi Minh (previously Saigon). We are all reading books on the Vietnam War..so when we got to HCM we were somewhat prepared for what we were going to see. We went and toured the Cuchi tunnels..where Vietnamese villagers and North Vietnamese army hid, lived and fought during both the Indo-China war and the Vietnamese war. They are very shallow, dark, endless tunnels below ground…where people and family's lived…for uppermost to 5yrs. It was pouring rain when we were there…but we still had the chance to climb into and explore one of the tunnels which was widened for tourist use! (original tunnels were VERY small…and some have collapsed). We also visited the War Remnants Memorial museum…which has old army helicopters, tanks, bomb/bullet remnants and rooms of endless pictures and stories of suffering. From the Agent Orange victims, to the Napalm victims..to horrid pictures of war brutality…to candid shots of the soldiers in combat by war photographers….we were all a bit speechless…and solemn. Its hard to imagine that it all only happened 30yrs ago….the Vietnamese people are some of the most resilient people…so strong. We have utmost respect for the Vietnamese people…past and present.

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We are now in Cambodia…our 3rd country of our trip! The border crossings just keep getting easier and our passports more full with visa's! We are looking forward to more culture here, more war memorials, seeing the famous Angkor Wat temple and hopefully some volunteering at an orphanage! We might be coming home with a few children of our own! That’s Vietnam in a nutshell….ciao for now! Peace (or Binh in Vietnamese!)

Posted by clintonb 23:01 Comments (0)

Southern China

Scooters, mud and happy hour!!!

Well its been awhile now travelling together, and we've gotten quite comfortable around each other. Since the first part of our trip was quite cold.......well...........us girls...........we sort of let ourselves go. We desparately needed a 'pretty' night, some waxing, manicures, pedicures, facials, and involved Clint in every step of the process, he joined us in our facials, then, when it got too difficult to do ourselves............Clint waxed our legs..........we dont know where or when or how, nor do we want to know..........but turns out he's quite good at it and now has become our official waxer for the trip!!! Read on to learn about the group shower.........

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Since our last entry we have travelled from Guangzhou to Guilin, another big city. We spent the day riding around on bikes, yet again, climbing various hills that are scattered throughout the city and countryside.

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We also experienced our first rainy day in China, spent the majority of the day in our muggy hostel, attempting to work Chinese Dvd's and Tv's, not so easy with Chinese remotes. So the day was spent making friends, playing pool and catching up on some emailing. That night Doria and I braved the streetmeat again and opted for the traditional hotpots. You get a clay pot of steamed rice and you get to choose your toppings, veggies and various meats (?!), they give you a little dish to choose which ones you like, Doria and I being quite confused since the bowl was so small, we tried to get our monies worth and put as much into our little bowl as possible, not knowing that the food mulitplies in the kitchen, and we each ended up with massive dishes of veggies (still afraid of the meats......). Turned out to be quite good!! We made a friend with a local Chinese man, very drunk, but quite entertaining.........he thought it was great that we could read the English town on his Chinese train ticket and then thought we could also speak Chinese.
We took a boat from Guilin to Yangshuo, we have started taking the Chinese tours because they are cheaper, although the downside is they never stop talking in Chinese, the food is dodgey and the transportation usually second class, but are also quite entertaining for us being the only whities on the trips. We are in many peoples photos all over China, of all the things to see in China, we are usually their best souvenir. The boat trip was 4 hours down the Li River through rice fields, local villages and many green hills and cliffs. The climate has changed dramatically, very hot and humid.........our tans are on their way back!!

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Yangshuo is a very westernized Chinese resort town, very much like Banff, but not. There are tons of trendy cafes, white tourists, tons of shopping, and many whities who have made it home (ie, mountain climbers from around the world........Canadian and Aussie bar owners).

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We rented a scooter for the day, such a dodgey thing to do in China....tons of traffic, no road rules, no scooter experience, no license required, or helmets, yikes........but fun. We scootered out to Moon Hill and went for a bit of a climb then hopped back on our speed demons (max 20 km/hr, silent and electric), went through a village and then to Real Water Cave. More dodgey Chinese tourism. We hopped on some wooden boats that have seen better days, they gave us 'hard hats' to wear that resemble a childs toy, and then row you under a cliff that leaves absolutely no head room so you are laying down in each other's laps. The cave tour was uneventful and quite boring, but we were only really in it for one reason. We took a mud bath. Probably wouldnt have been so much fun if there was good lighting and we could actually see what we were getting ourselves into, was basically a big pool full of cold mushy mud, with chunks of something we dont want to know what.... We got covered, then went down a slide in the rock into the mud puddle.......the pics tell the story. Was all good fun till we had to rinse off in freezing water, this time we were thankful for the crappy lighting cause Doria and I stripped to our birthday suits to get all the mud out of our crevices. Clint tried not to look........but the Chinese sure did, there were a few flashes going off......

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We had our first argument with the Chinese when we returned our scooters, drew quite the crowd. Dorias mirror fell off in her hand while she was adjusting it, so obviously had a previous crack in it, and they refused to give us back our deposit until we paid for the damage...........when really they use the tourist to fix the damages on their bikes, or dont fix them at all........they threatened to call the cops, harsh words were exchanged, we paid the 10 yuan (ok only 2 dollars but thats besides the point) and walked away. This is Dorias second run in actually, the first was when she was bargaining for a purse and the lady didnt like the price she offered, she threatened to kill her..............."I kill you!!!"....She ended up getting the purse at the low price.......haha
We rented some bikes (cause we really like to do that) and rode through the country side for about 3 hours. It is quite tropical here, many rice fields around and its the time of year for planting so many of the local farmers were out working their fields. We stopped to watch one older couple do it and thought they must be the best dart players around, they just toss the plugs straight into the mud and they always land perfect..............then they spotted us watching and let each of us give it a try...........its actually very easy!! Now we have to come back in a few months and see how our little rices are doing!! Just how do you harvest rice????? We got lost a few times, and the comfy, leasure bikes Doria and I chose for our relaxing country bike tour ended up being a pain in the ass.......literally............a few wrong turns and we were backroading through rocky village terrain..........all good fun........

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We have loved it here, has been very relaxing, spent a lot of our time just wandering around, shopping, hiking, picking random roads to follow into the country, and eating good food!!

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Speaking of food.............they have many specialties on a lot of their menus, snake, dog, bamboo rat, rabbit..........we were walking down an alley one day where a crowd had gathered, and got there just on time to see a local man pull a snake out of a bag and slit its throat while holding it upside down, draining the blood into a glass, which was later mixed with the local rice whiskey to drink. They then skinned it, with the tail still coiling itself around the mans arm, and separated the meat from the organs..............delicious......... blood down the streets and head in the gutter.

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We've been keeping ourselves busy at night too, enjoying the western run bars and happy hour, as well as taking in some Cormorant fishing.......watching the fisherman on his bamboo raft letting the birds feed, then hauling them in by the ropes around their necks to gag the fish out of them.

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We also took in a light show with traditional Chinese music and entertainers, it was in an outdoor theater in water framed by the mountains, very beautiful setting and great show with about 400 people with their costumes all lit up in an act together.
We have now been in China for over a month now and even the Chinese are starting to think we are one of them! We got our portraits painted onto a t-shirt one night...and the guy looked like he was really concentrating on our features...but when the shirt was done...we all looked the same.. CHINESE!!

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The Chinese may be rude, dirty, pushy, like to pee in the streets, and train their kids to do the same...loud and honk at anything that moves...BUT....we now know them as very hard working, friendly,accomodating and kind people...who will start any conversation with you..if it be in Chinese, English or some form of Chinglish! They build anything anywhere..especially if it involves building thousands of steps up to it. They will one day take over the world..and they deserve it.. we will all back them up!
Tommorow we look forward to doing some rock climbing..and then we will go to see some rice terraces, and then to Kunming, our last stop in China..before venturing into Vietnam. Keep ya posted!

Posted by clintonb 06:24 Comments (0)

Still in China... we think?

Doria --the gal who can't speak chinese!

So, Xian...our favourite city since we have been in China. It was such a wonderful city..and we had a lot of fun in and around it.Xi_an_City..eb_view1.jpgXi_an_City..eb_view2.jpgXi_an_City..eb_view.jpg
We climbed Mt Hua Shan...which was a feat, making it to the South Peak of 2160m..and quite picturesque.We also got to place our locks (Locks are found all the way up to the various peaks) on the top of the south peak (the highest) FOREVER!!! We also biked on the city wall that encompasses the city...it was fun, a bit bumpy and a great way to see the city. We also saw the 8th Wonder of the World!...the Terracotta warriors. They are amazing, so old, so well preserved...and well, just check out the pics!..you'll see. Hard to believe they were found in such a good state...being buried approx 30 m below the ground for the best part of 2000 years.
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We left our beloved Xian via an overnight train, which turned out to be the way to travel..quite comfy and easy to sleep on! (better for me because i was on the bottom bunk...Melissa and Clint were on the very top, which is 3 beds up!--cramped!

We made it to Shanghai, China's biggest city...and wow...hard to get a taxi.. We later found out that certain colored taxi's go to certain areas of the city and therefore we had to find the right one!...its not that we were foreign and they didn't want to take us! Shanghai is quite a nice city, HUGE, with all the ammenities of Western Culture (Starbucks, McDonalds, KFC, big big Shopping malls-they are HUGE there!..like 10floors or more high). The most famous area is The Bund, the river that flows through the city. Its disgusting to say the least...very very dirty, first thing we saw was a floating condom! But at night, its at its best...tons of neon lights and big buildings....quite beautiful then! A great place to walk..and check out the sights. We also shopped a lot!...but not your typical shopping!...we checked out basically all of the black market (back alley goodness)..shops in a very busy shopping area of Shanghai. We were telling THEM what prices we wanted and what Prada, Gucci, bags/wallets, watches etc. were the best!! We all found a few great items, at great prices..SOOO cheap...it was awesome!
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We had a bit of trouble leaving Shanghai, as we missed our very much advanced time flight (10hrs!)...the one deadline we had and we screwed it up! haha But, our trusty travel agent got us booked on another flight out 2 days later...and we had a very pleasant flight to Hong Kong! It beat the other option of another overnight 24hr train ride. It also meant we were able to take the 430km/hr Maglev train to the airport!...a VERY nice way to travel....30kms in 6 minutes! Very sweet!

So, we made it to Hong Kong and found it to be much more tropical, warmer and VERY modern/western. They even had a Shell gas station...and..Walmart! We also found it to be VERY expensive, especially because we were coming into the weekend. We toured the HongKong underground via the Subway, looking for different tourist sites..but found mostly crowded shopping areas and way too many people! Our last night we met up with an old friend of mine from LCBI (high school) days...Leo Wu. He took us out for a nice dinner of Peking duck, wonton soup, and other various delicious chinese dishes. It was the best chinese food we have had since we have arrived in China, made better by the great Harbour view and the fact that he ordered it all for us! We then toured the Harbour, which is quite beautiful at night..walked the Chinese Hollywood Boulevard!(many stars included! ie: Jackie Chan, Jet Li etc.)
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We are now very happy to be in Guangzhou...a smaller (but still MAJOR) city. It is called China's Los Angeles! We are staying on the Shamian island portion of the city..which is quite quaint, quiet and very tropical! The weather just keeps getting warmer and warmer!..and more humid. We love it! It is a very European island..with influence in the architecture, food, and the total feel of the place. We don't feel like we are in China. Its also interesting because many American families come here to live for a month after adopting Chinese female children. There are TONS of them..just like the lonely planet said there would be...amazing! We have found out that the Lonely Planet is the bible...!

Tis all for now...we are very much looking forward to the South of China and all of the mountaineering, boat trips and biking we get to do around it! Will share more later! Take care

Bye from Team DMC :)

Posted by clintonb 09:04 Comments (0)

China

Two weeks so far

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View ATW 2007 on clintonb's travel map.

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Welcome to Team DMC's (Doria,Melissa,Clint) travel blog. We have been in China for two weeks now and it's been quite the experience so far. We arrived in Beijing on the 19 of March, i blinked and before i new it we were through coustoms. Had an interesting time trying to get a taxi to out hostel but we managed in the end. Not bad at all, we were tucked away in a small ally way. We spent 4 days in Beijing exploring the markets, seeing all the sights (the great wall rocks) and even braved the crazy traffic on bikes, quite funny as melissa had no brakes!
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Next stop was Datong and our first experience on a train (hard seat), no probs getting on after adjusting to the constant stares of interested locals in the waiting hall. We found our seats and spent the next 6 hours trying to keep the circulation going to our sore butts. Datong is were Doria and i got sick( puking into a squatter is not plesant!!) and it took a few days to get over it. After seeing the sights and tasting the local food via a game of charades at one of the restaurants we set of to Wutai Shan. A bumpy bus ride getting us half way there then a car the rest, had to convince the driver to take us to the hostel rather than dropping us at the bus station. Wutai Shan was nice although dissapointing to see so much pollution in such a nice place. The locals were very friendly and tried so hard at one point to find Melissa a jade ring, we searched the whole market with every stall calling out to us if they had anything that was green and round. No luck...oh well China's a big place.

Leaving Wutai Shan we bused it to Taiyuan for an overnight stop before hopping a train ( hard sleeper this time..not bad!!) to Loyang. Here we spent two days seeing the sights and eating Macdonalds as i needed a break from the local food, even so there is only so much macca's you can eat so we are looking foward to some western food when we get to Xi'an. This is where we are now ( 6 hours on soft seat sooo good!!!) and it's a beautiful place,very clean and a lot less polluted than any of the places we have been so far. Our hostel rocks!! by far the best we have seen, food is fantastic and the staff are very helpfull. We are going to brave the traffic today on the bikes again ( stop by starbucks for much needed coffee) and ride on and around Xi'an's city wall. well thats all for now we will be making more regular entries as we have only just started this and emailing just dosent cut it, bye for now!

DMC lovin China

Posted by clintonb 17:55 Comments (0)

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